ivan
09-03-07, 04:17 PM
How to build a 5EFTE engine
Well this question has become so popular that I have seen it come up on forums at least once a week these days. So how do you build a 5EFTE engine? Keep reading and it will tell you all that you need to know.
Firstly, what’s the difference between the E series engines? Have a look here (http://www.ep91.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8) which will show you a datasheet full of useful information. You really need to understand what is in here before you can continue.
Differences that need to be understood
Let’s look at what’s physically different between all the E series engines. We will only concentrate on the differences that actually affect the conversion. The following differs between the engines:
The sump, and matching pickup is deeper on the 5E engines, however it does not have any baffles. It also does not have a turbo oil drain either.
The crankshafts are different. The 5E throws a greater stroke than the 4E, but the big end is the same size.
The tapped holes on the crank for the flywheel differ between the 4E and the 5E, even though they are both 6 holes each. This means the 212mm 4EFTE flywheel does not bolt onto the 5E crank.
The Stroke of the 5E (length of the Con-rod) is greater than the 4E engine. 4E = 77.40mm whereas 5E = 87.00mm. That makes the 5E Con-rods 9.6mm longer.
The ConRods on the 5EFE are thinner than on the 5EFHE engine. More information can be found here http://www.ep91.com/showthread.php?t=34.
The oil filter re-locator assembly on the 4EFTE has 3 holes for screws to secure it to the block. The 4EFE and 5E engines do not have this because the filter bolts straight to the block.
The pistons differ; the 5EFE and 5EFHE pistons have a raised top to increase the compression ratio and the 4EFTE piston top is flat to keep it at a low 8.2CR.
The valves-springs on the 4EFE/5E differ to the 4EFTE. I have tested both and the 4EFE ones are weaker. I can only assume that the 5EFE ones would be the same.
The camshafts differ from model to model, and year to year. The 5EFHE cams are the best to use, but the 4 most common specs are noted in the comparison sheet between all the E series engines.
The rocker cover on the 4EFTE has a breather hose in-between cylinder 3 and 4 to cope with extra crank case pressure.So what parts will I need?
Ok, you have gotten this far so my guess is you are keen to build this engine. Well below I will add the parts necessary to build the engine. Of course you can always substitute an OEM part with an aftermarket part if you choose.
4EFTE sump
4EFTE oil feed pickup
5EFHE connecting rods or aftermarket connecting rods
4EFTE pistons or aftermarket forged pistons for a 4EFTE
Thicker head gasket if you want similar compression to a 4EFTE
4EFTE oil filter re-locator adaptor.
E series head (they are all the same)
4EFTE valve springs or up rated valve springs.
4EFTE cam cover (rocker cover)
5EFE flywheelThings you will need to consider when putting your long motor together:
You will need the 4EFTE sump and oil pickup. They are a pair, so you will not be able to mix them up.
My recommendation is to use either 5EFHE con-rods as the 5EFE con-rods are very thin, and would not cope with the demand of a turbocharged engine. For more information, have a look here (http://www.ep91.com/showthread.php?t=34) again. Another alternative is to use aftermarket Con-rods. Check out our ‘Part Numbers’ forum to find any associated part numbers for 5E con-rods.
Now because it is going to be a turbocharged engine, it is recommended to reduce the compression ratio of the engine. To do this, we change the pistons. The 4EFTE pistons work a treat and are easy to get. Obviously you can also go for aftermarket pistons if your budgets allow it. The 4EFTE pistons will reduce the compression ratio down to approx. 8.5:1.
To reduce the compression further, a thicker head gasket can be installed. This can be the thicker TRD head gasket, or a custom gasket. Without a thicker head gasket, your engine should run just over 8.5:1 compression ratio. With a TRD head gasket, it should run closer to 8.2:1. Again check out our ‘Part Numbers’ forum to find any associated part numbers.
All the heads are identical, so if you have a 4e or 5e head, you can use it without any problems.
The valve springs are stronger in the 4EFTE as opposed to all other E series engines, so at a minimum, install these. Personally I would get aftermarket ones that are stronger again.
Unless you will modify the cam cover (rocker cover) to vent crank case pressure to a catch can, I would install the 4EFTE one as it should be sufficient.
As the crankshafts are different, you are unable to bolt up the 4EFTE flywheel which takes the 212mm clutch. Instead you will have to use a 4EFE/5E flywheel which supports the 200mm clutch. Alternatively you may opt for an aftermarket flywheel. There is one other alternative, being a 3E-TE flywheel from a Corolla GP Turbo 1.5ltr engine. The bolt pattern is the same, and will allow you to bolt up any standard or aftermarket 4EFTE clutch kit.Are we finished? No!
Ok, so you have your long motor compete. You have most of the mechanical issues out of the way, but there are still a few things to keep an eye out.
The block is taller, so you technically have a bigger engine in your car and some things might not fit like they used to. The two most common items that may suffer are:
Top mount intercooler which I highly doubt you would use when upgrading to a 5EFTE engine
The Exhaust connecting to the dump pipe make not be able to bolt straight up, and may require very slight modifications. Sometime the flexi-pipe can accommodate enough to still bolt up.All your other peripherals like 4EFTE inlet manifold, 4EFTE exhaust manifold, gearbox and all others should be able to bolt up directly without modifying anything. There is however one important topic that needs to be covered, the electronics to run the new engine as the 4EFTE engine will not cope.
Engine Management System
You will have to run some sort of engine management system (EMS) either in addition to your 4EFTE computer or as a replacement.
Almost all aftermarket computers can run the engine, so long as the correct configuration is purchased and the system is wired in and tuned correctly. Due to there being so many brands of aftermarket computers, we won’t cover them at all.
Piggy Back computers, like the Greddy E-manage can be installed and tuned to run your new engine. There are several piggy back systems out there, however I would steer clear of any system that does not control both fuel and ignition systems. Some, like the Apexi SAFC only control the fuel (and are still limited) so I would steer clear from them entirely.
Lastly I want you to know that the above is a guide, not an instruction manual. It will not be the only resource you can rely on to build a 5EFTE, however it will set the foundations for you, which you can base you further research on. The above are the bare basics on which a 5EFTE is built on, and offcourse you may choose to vary your configuration to suit your needs.
If you have anything you would like to add, or believe something is inaccurate, please let us know and we would gladly update the information.
Regards,
Ivan
Note: This article may have been copied from another website and revised to better suit the Starlet community. If you are the owner of the original article and would like us to remove it, please contact me via email with the subject "Remove Article" and i will remove it from this website as soon as possible.
Well this question has become so popular that I have seen it come up on forums at least once a week these days. So how do you build a 5EFTE engine? Keep reading and it will tell you all that you need to know.
Firstly, what’s the difference between the E series engines? Have a look here (http://www.ep91.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8) which will show you a datasheet full of useful information. You really need to understand what is in here before you can continue.
Differences that need to be understood
Let’s look at what’s physically different between all the E series engines. We will only concentrate on the differences that actually affect the conversion. The following differs between the engines:
The sump, and matching pickup is deeper on the 5E engines, however it does not have any baffles. It also does not have a turbo oil drain either.
The crankshafts are different. The 5E throws a greater stroke than the 4E, but the big end is the same size.
The tapped holes on the crank for the flywheel differ between the 4E and the 5E, even though they are both 6 holes each. This means the 212mm 4EFTE flywheel does not bolt onto the 5E crank.
The Stroke of the 5E (length of the Con-rod) is greater than the 4E engine. 4E = 77.40mm whereas 5E = 87.00mm. That makes the 5E Con-rods 9.6mm longer.
The ConRods on the 5EFE are thinner than on the 5EFHE engine. More information can be found here http://www.ep91.com/showthread.php?t=34.
The oil filter re-locator assembly on the 4EFTE has 3 holes for screws to secure it to the block. The 4EFE and 5E engines do not have this because the filter bolts straight to the block.
The pistons differ; the 5EFE and 5EFHE pistons have a raised top to increase the compression ratio and the 4EFTE piston top is flat to keep it at a low 8.2CR.
The valves-springs on the 4EFE/5E differ to the 4EFTE. I have tested both and the 4EFE ones are weaker. I can only assume that the 5EFE ones would be the same.
The camshafts differ from model to model, and year to year. The 5EFHE cams are the best to use, but the 4 most common specs are noted in the comparison sheet between all the E series engines.
The rocker cover on the 4EFTE has a breather hose in-between cylinder 3 and 4 to cope with extra crank case pressure.So what parts will I need?
Ok, you have gotten this far so my guess is you are keen to build this engine. Well below I will add the parts necessary to build the engine. Of course you can always substitute an OEM part with an aftermarket part if you choose.
4EFTE sump
4EFTE oil feed pickup
5EFHE connecting rods or aftermarket connecting rods
4EFTE pistons or aftermarket forged pistons for a 4EFTE
Thicker head gasket if you want similar compression to a 4EFTE
4EFTE oil filter re-locator adaptor.
E series head (they are all the same)
4EFTE valve springs or up rated valve springs.
4EFTE cam cover (rocker cover)
5EFE flywheelThings you will need to consider when putting your long motor together:
You will need the 4EFTE sump and oil pickup. They are a pair, so you will not be able to mix them up.
My recommendation is to use either 5EFHE con-rods as the 5EFE con-rods are very thin, and would not cope with the demand of a turbocharged engine. For more information, have a look here (http://www.ep91.com/showthread.php?t=34) again. Another alternative is to use aftermarket Con-rods. Check out our ‘Part Numbers’ forum to find any associated part numbers for 5E con-rods.
Now because it is going to be a turbocharged engine, it is recommended to reduce the compression ratio of the engine. To do this, we change the pistons. The 4EFTE pistons work a treat and are easy to get. Obviously you can also go for aftermarket pistons if your budgets allow it. The 4EFTE pistons will reduce the compression ratio down to approx. 8.5:1.
To reduce the compression further, a thicker head gasket can be installed. This can be the thicker TRD head gasket, or a custom gasket. Without a thicker head gasket, your engine should run just over 8.5:1 compression ratio. With a TRD head gasket, it should run closer to 8.2:1. Again check out our ‘Part Numbers’ forum to find any associated part numbers.
All the heads are identical, so if you have a 4e or 5e head, you can use it without any problems.
The valve springs are stronger in the 4EFTE as opposed to all other E series engines, so at a minimum, install these. Personally I would get aftermarket ones that are stronger again.
Unless you will modify the cam cover (rocker cover) to vent crank case pressure to a catch can, I would install the 4EFTE one as it should be sufficient.
As the crankshafts are different, you are unable to bolt up the 4EFTE flywheel which takes the 212mm clutch. Instead you will have to use a 4EFE/5E flywheel which supports the 200mm clutch. Alternatively you may opt for an aftermarket flywheel. There is one other alternative, being a 3E-TE flywheel from a Corolla GP Turbo 1.5ltr engine. The bolt pattern is the same, and will allow you to bolt up any standard or aftermarket 4EFTE clutch kit.Are we finished? No!
Ok, so you have your long motor compete. You have most of the mechanical issues out of the way, but there are still a few things to keep an eye out.
The block is taller, so you technically have a bigger engine in your car and some things might not fit like they used to. The two most common items that may suffer are:
Top mount intercooler which I highly doubt you would use when upgrading to a 5EFTE engine
The Exhaust connecting to the dump pipe make not be able to bolt straight up, and may require very slight modifications. Sometime the flexi-pipe can accommodate enough to still bolt up.All your other peripherals like 4EFTE inlet manifold, 4EFTE exhaust manifold, gearbox and all others should be able to bolt up directly without modifying anything. There is however one important topic that needs to be covered, the electronics to run the new engine as the 4EFTE engine will not cope.
Engine Management System
You will have to run some sort of engine management system (EMS) either in addition to your 4EFTE computer or as a replacement.
Almost all aftermarket computers can run the engine, so long as the correct configuration is purchased and the system is wired in and tuned correctly. Due to there being so many brands of aftermarket computers, we won’t cover them at all.
Piggy Back computers, like the Greddy E-manage can be installed and tuned to run your new engine. There are several piggy back systems out there, however I would steer clear of any system that does not control both fuel and ignition systems. Some, like the Apexi SAFC only control the fuel (and are still limited) so I would steer clear from them entirely.
Lastly I want you to know that the above is a guide, not an instruction manual. It will not be the only resource you can rely on to build a 5EFTE, however it will set the foundations for you, which you can base you further research on. The above are the bare basics on which a 5EFTE is built on, and offcourse you may choose to vary your configuration to suit your needs.
If you have anything you would like to add, or believe something is inaccurate, please let us know and we would gladly update the information.
Regards,
Ivan
Note: This article may have been copied from another website and revised to better suit the Starlet community. If you are the owner of the original article and would like us to remove it, please contact me via email with the subject "Remove Article" and i will remove it from this website as soon as possible.