Well, with lots of time on my hands
and, for some reason, wanting to
get ready for the addition of a FPR,
I went a bought a vacuum manifold
from TUNER TOYS...
here's what it looks like:
Basically the way I understand it you can tap into a vacuum port on your intake manifold
and turn it into 5 ports...
I think I heard someone, once say, individual vacuum lines (loosing those "T" connections) is
the way to go... So, that's what I did today... one line at a time so as not to confuse myself...
Here's what the finished product looked like on TERCEL1...
I capped off vacuum lines (obviously) which were not being used...
Well, below (for those who love my drawings) is a BEFORE & AFTER schematic of the
vacuum line...
![]()
Last edited by alfradio; 17-04-08 at 01:43 PM.
looks nice! I was looking for such a thing too but couldnt find one.... but i made one myself and works great![]()
Someone on another forum posted the following:
Any comments?my 2cents. Keep the boost sensor exactly stock to accurately measure real life
condition of the engine. That vacc manifold is great for gauges, but it creates
a slight vaccum chamber (like a buffer) that can distort whats really happening
in the intake. Keep the sensor as short and close to the intake mani as
possible.
Great diagrams! Keep up the great work!![]()
alf
this is correct, it creates a bit more vacuum than the engine does in real life so u have too keep the MAP sensor on the original location on ur engine
Personally i wouldnt use one of those as they can not supply enough vaccum to be accurate. I run all mine individually off my manifold.
To be honest though, it makes two sits of difference if you are using a cheap boost guage anywyas as they are inaccurate by a few psi anyways and the BOV doesnt really matter.
Ivan
your fuel reg and MAP sensor lines should always be seperated from all others (and from each other) as this will provide the most accurate reading for the ECU/fuel reg
havent been keeping up with TO so congrats on getting into the 13's alf